It's readily biodegradable. Thanks. The extract coming from the popular garden plant Calendula or Marigold. Find out more. As for skincare, it can make the skin feel nice and smooth in moisturizers (emollient) or it can act as a foam building cleansing agent in cleansers. Water (Aqua, Eau), Collagen (Vegetable)*, Squalane, Glycerin, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Dimethicone, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter, Palmitic Acid, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Stearic Acid, Cetearyl Alcohol, PEG-100 Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate, Parachlorella Beijerinckii Exopolysaccharides, Chlorella Protothecoides … Amino acids are also the building blocks of proteins, such as collagen, so when you thoroughly chop up a big collagen molecule, you end up with an amino acid mixture, like this guy we are writing about. The lightweight texture of this serum melts into skin quickly, providing an immediate skin-plumping effect. The unrefined version (be sure to use that on your skin!) Waxy, white, solid stuff that helps water and oil to mix together and leaves the skin feeling soft and smooth. Though chemically speaking, it is alcohol (as in, it has an -OH group in its molecule), its properties are totally different from the properties of low molecular weight or drying alcohols such as denat. It can make the skin feel nice and smooth in moisturizers (emollient) or it can act as a foam building cleansing agent in cleansers. It works synergistically with preservatives and helps to improve water-resistance of sunscreens. Works in synergy with Vitamin C. Amino acids are important natural moisturizing factors (NMFs), that can be found naturally in the skin where they help the epidermis (upper layer of the skin) to stay nice and hydrated. Enter FIRST10 at checkout for 10% off your first order. One of the active parts of Chamomile that is used in skincare as a nice anti-inflammatory and soothing ingredient. As a high-oleic plant oil, it is recommended for dry skin. A synthetic liquid oil that can replace mineral oil or silicone oils in the cosmetic formulas. Infused with our exclusive … It is a polymer (created from repeating subunits) molecule and has different molecular weight and thus different viscosity versions from water-light to thick liquid. Bottom line: Beta-glucan is a great ingredient, especially for sensitive skin. Both of them are big molecules that contain acrylic acid units, but Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer also contains some other monomers that are hydrophobic, i.e. Combined with other super-natural ingredients, this miraculous discovery powers Algenist’s award … Butylene glycol, or let’s just call it BG, is a multi-tasking colorless, syrupy liquid. This means, our collagen … :) You are almost done: please check your mailbox to confirm your email! There are different grades depending on the molecular weight ranging from very light, volatile, non-residue leaving ones to more substantial, slight residue leaving ones. Ingredient-level innovations. The gist of the "collagen in topical skincare" subject is to know that collagen in a jar has nothing to do with wrinkles but everything to do with skin hydration. A common helper ingredient that stabilizes emulsions and helps to thicken up products. Thanks to its vitamin E content it also has some antioxidant properties. 10 day results, always. The big and important protein molecule that usually comes from animal skin such as fish or bovine. By continuing to browse our site you accept our cookie policy. We stand here with you as an Accomplice to Change. It helps to soften scars and increase their elasticity. GENIUS Collagen Calming Relief is a concentrated but ultra-gentle restorative treatment that is specifically formulated to treat mild skin discomfort. It can be used in many types of formulations as it has great thermal stability (can be heated up to 85°C) and works on a wide range of pH levels (ph 3-10). Enter FREESHIP at checkout to enjoy complimentary standard shipping for a limited time. A very common water-loving surfactant and emulsifier that helps to keep water and oil mixed nicely together. As cosmetic chemist Colins writes it, "its safety really is beyond any doubt". Chemically, a wax ester is a fatty acid + a fatty alcohol, one long molecule. It comes from the seeds of African Shea or Karite Trees and used as a magic moisturizer and emollient. A common multi-tasker fatty acid. Algenist Genius Collagen Calming Relief ingredients explained: Water (Aqua, Eau), Collagen (Vegetable)*, Squalane, Glycerin, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Dimethicone, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter, Palmitic Acid, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Stearic Acid, Cetearyl Alcohol, PEG-100 Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate, … It also helps to stabilize oil-water mixes (emulsions), though it does not function as an emulsifier in itself. A gentle treatment for all skin types, including skin showing signs of sensitivity, that comforts dryness and look of redness to restore bounce and resilience. GENIUS Collagen Calming Relief is a concentrated but ultra-gentle restorative treatment that is specifically formulated to treat mild skin discomfort. Use it every morning and night for a healthier-looking complexion. A super common, waxy, white, solid stuff that helps water and oil to mix together, gives body to creams and leaves the skin feeling soft and smooth. A synthetic liquid oil that can replace mineral oil or silicone oils in the cosmetic formulas. It was only an in-vitro study meaning that it was done on cell cultures and not on real people, but still, this also does not support the use of AP too much. Beautiful Product. Also used for scar treatment. Yes, it’s soap. Water (Aqua, Eau), Collagen (Vegan)*, Squalane, Glycerin, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Dimethicone, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter, Palmitic Acid, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Stearic Acid, Cetearyl Alcohol, PEG-100 Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate, Parachlorella Beijerinckii Exopolysaccharides, Chlorella Protothecoides … It is very common in gel-type formulas that also contain an oil-phase as well as in cleansers as it also works with most cleansing agents (unlike a lot of other thickeners). It's known and grown for jojoba oil, the golden yellow liquid coming from the seeds (about 50% of the weight of the seeds will be oil). The blend of these two (caprylyl glycol + phenoxyethanol) is called Optiphen, which not only helps to keep your cosmetics free from nasty things for a long time but also gives a good feel to the finished product. 16 were here. Truth be told, there are many great plant oils and sunflower oil is definitely one of them. High performance safe & vegan formulas powered by algae. In fact, it's the most common saturated fatty acid found in animals and plants. This means that our molecule is part water- and part oil-loving, so it not only works as a thickener but also as an emulsion stabilizer. T&Cs apply. Similar to other glycols, it's a helper ingredient used as a solvent, or to thin out thick formulas and make them more nicely spreadable. In hair care, Collagen Amino Acids are able to improve shine, texture, and manageability of the hair. According to The National Sunflower Association, there is evidence that both the plant and its oil were used by American Indians in the area of Arizona and New Mexico about 3000 BC. A multi-functional, silky feeling helper ingredient that can do quite many things. Sunflower does not need a big intro as you probably use it in the kitchen as cooking oil, or you munch on the seeds as a healthy snack or you adore its big, beautiful yellow flower during the summer - or you do all of these and probably even more. An emollient and natural moisturizer that can be found also in the sebum (oily stuff our skin produces). It's quite a multi-tasker: can be used to improve skin moisturization, as a solvent, to boost preservative efficacy or to influence the sensory properties of the end formula. A really multi-functional helper ingredient that can do several things in a skincare product: it can bring a soft and pleasant feel to the formula, it can act as a humectant and emollient, it can be a solvent for some other ingredients (for example it can help to stabilize perfumes in watery products) and it can also help to disperse pigments more evenly in makeup products. It’s safe and gentle, and can be used up to 1% worldwide. Please try again later! It does so by neutralizing the metal ions in the formula (that usually get into there from water) that would otherwise cause some not so nice changes. Algenist's 'Genius Collagen Calming Relief' treatment is a gentle yet effective solution to dry, irritated skin. It is also soothing and rich in antioxidants. It's used as an emulsion stabilizer, solvent and a broad spectrum antimicrobial. It can be found in nature - in green tea - but the version used in cosmetics is synthetic. It's uniquely excellent at helping the skin with its protective barrier and helping it to stay moisturized. It contains flavonoids that give the plant anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties. Ingredient-level innovations. It's a very rich, highly moisturizing emollient oil that makes the skin smooth and nourished. Add to Bag ALGENIST POWER Advanced Wrinkle Fighter Moisturizer 60ml £ 68.00. Eating it is anti-diabetic, anti-cancer and even lowers the blood cholesterol. Its comedogen index is 0, meaning that it's pretty much an all skin-type oil. At first glance, it seems like your average emollient plant oil: it looks like an oil and it's nourishing and moisturizing to the skin but if we dig a bit deeper, it turns out that jojoba oil is really special and unique: technically - or rather chemically - it's not an oil but a wax ester (and calling it an oil is kind of sloppy). It makes your skin feel nice and smooth (emollient), gives body to cream type products and helps to stabilize water and oil mixes (aka emulsions). It can boost the effectiveness of phenoxyethanol (and other preservatives) and as an added bonus it feels nice on the skin too. They are good friends because ethylhexylglycerin can boost the effectiveness of phenoxyethanol (and other preservatives) and as an added bonus it feels nice on the skin too. It is there in lots of products in tiny amounts (honestly, we do not really understand why), however, we do not know about any vitamin C serum featuring AP in high amounts. The number in the name of Ceteareth emulsifiers refers to the average number of ethylene oxide molecules added and 20 makes a good emulsifier. BTW, lye is not something new. A fatty acid that can be found naturally in the skin. Ingredients: Water (Aqua, Eau), Collagen (Vegetable)*, Squalane, Glycerin, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Dimethicone, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter, Palmitic Acid, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Stearic Acid, Cetearyl Alcohol, PEG-100 Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate, Parachlorella Beijerinckii Exopolysaccharides, Chlorella … It’s safe and gentle, but even more importantly, it’s not a feared-by-everyone-mostly-without-scientific-reason paraben. For all skin types including skin showing signs of sensitivity, this luxurious cream provides a cushioned layer on the skin that immediately comforts dryness, tightness, Amino acids have low molecular weight (about 150 Da), so they can penetrate the upper layer of the skin where they help moisture retention and enhance the skin's suppleness and flexibility. It‘s also shown to have wound healing properties and is a mild antioxidant. According to manufacturer info, it's used  for many centuries for its exceptional healing powers and is particularly remarkable in the treatment of wounds. We do a Best of INCIDecoder email once a month with the most interesting products and ingredients we bump into. It's a popular duo. It’s not strong enough to be used in itself so it’s always combined with something else, often with potassium sorbate. A great study in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology compared a bunch of vitamin C derivatives and this derivative was the only one where the study said in terms of stability that it's "similar to AA". It's probably the most hyped up natural butter in skincare today. It also occurs naturally in our body and is used as a food additive. It’s mainly a solvent for ingredients that do not like to dissolve in oils but rather in water. Why the puffer coat is a winter-styling essential, Suitable for all skin types, including sensitive, Free from BHA, mineral oils, parabens, paraffins, phthalates, SLS and SLES, Gently massage into skin, concentrating on rough, dry, tight or red skin. It’s a great pick for creating a nice feeling product. It can be produced from most vegetable oils (in oils three fatty acid molecules are attached to glycerin instead of just one like here) in a pretty simple, "green" process that is similar to soap making. A natural corn sugar derived glycol. If you have some pure jojoba oil at home, you should be fine using it for years. It is usually used as a helper ingredient to adjust the pH of the formula. Can you guess what? Even if it can be converted, the palmitate part of the molecule is more than the half of it, so the efficacy will not be good and we have never seen a serum that contains a decent (and proudly disclosed) amount of AP. Super common little helper ingredient that helps products to remain nice and stable for a longer time. Creating a luxuriously cushioned layer on the skin, it has an immediately comforting effect to tackle dryness and tightness. Avocado oil - a highly moisturizing, rich emollient oil that is loaded with fatty acids (oleic - 70%) and vitamin A, E and D. Sunflower Oil - it's a great emollient that protects & enhances the skin barrier. There is also some research showing that citric acid with regular use (think three months and 20% concentration) can help sun-damaged skin, increase skin thickness and some nice hydrating things called glycosaminoglycans in the skin. It’s in the cell walls of yeast, some mushrooms, seaweeds, and cereals. AHAS (13) Alguronic Acid (26) Avocado (2) BHA - Salicylic Acid (2) Citric Acid (10) Collagen (12) ... ALGENIST GENIUS Collagen Calming Relief 40ml £ 55.00. So citric acid is an exfoliant, that can - just like other AHAs - gently lift off the dead skin cells of your skin and make it more smooth and fresh. It’s pH dependent and works best at acidic pH levels (3-5). A multi-functional helper ingredient that acts as a humectant and emollient. Btw, if you chop it up less thoroughly, you get hydrolyzed collagen, a kind of peptide mixture with smallish chains of amino acids. It is one of the more promising natural preservatives that can be used even alone (recommended at 2-4%), but it's not as effective as more common alternatives, like parabens or phenoxyethanol. It still often shows up in the ingredient list of soaps and other cleansers. An oil soluble vitamin C derivative that has mixed data about its effectiveness. Has to be combined with other preservatives. Firstly, it's stability is only similar to that of pure ascorbic acid (AA), which means it is not really stable. It also protects the surface of the skin and enhances the damaged or irritated skin barrier. It's also a very popular ingredient in shaving foams. During the fermentation process, a peptide is secreted from the bacteria that has significant antimicrobial properties. It's loaded with the nourishing and moisturizing fatty acid, oleic (70%) and contains some others including palmitic (10%) and linoleic acid (8%). It works mainly against fungi. This does not mean that ascorbyl palmitate cannot penetrate the skin (because it can, it's oil soluble and the skin likes to absorb oil soluble things) but this means that it's questionable if ascorbyl palmitate can be converted into pure Vit C in the skin. Based on results from an in vivo test of 26 women, microalgae oil has the ability to keep skin hydrated 5 times more after 24 hours than untreated skin. They found that despite the large molecular size beta-glucan does penetrate into the skin, even into the dermis (the middle layer of the skin where wrinkles form). Jojoba oil - a wax ester (chemically not a real oil), that's very similar to human sebum. GENIUS Collagen Calming Relief is a concentrated but ultra-gentle restorative treatment that is specifically formulated to treat mild skin discomfort. 4.5 /5 2 reviews. It was already used by ancient Egyptians to help oil and fat magically turn into something else. An anti-irritant and anti-itch molecule that copies the active ingredient in the well-known soothing plant, oat. High performance safe & vegan formulas powered by algae. Leslie Bauman notes in Cosmetic Dermatology that one application of sunflower oil significantly speeds up the recovery of the skin barrier within an hour and sustains the results 5 hours after using it. We are highly skeptical what effect a tiny amount of AP has in a formula. It’s pretty much the current IT-preservative. BTW, it’s also a food additive. Algenist Genious Collagen Calming Relief. Like crazy stable. GENIUS Collagen Calming Relief is a concentrated but ultra-gentle restorative treatment that is specifically formulated to treat mild skin discomfort. With a gentle but effective formula, the Algenist Genius Collagen Calming Relief works hard to tackle the redness and flakiness common with rough, dry skin. Usually the main solvent in cosmetic products. Apart from leaving the skin soft and smooth (emollient), it's also used as a waterproofing agent in sunscreens or makeup products and as a shine enhancer in lip gloss formulas. Wax esters are on the outer surface of several plant leaves to give them environmental protection. It is typically used in tiny amounts, around 0.1% or even less. Another advantage of squalane is that it is pretty much compatible with all skin types and skin conditions. Jojoba is a drought resistant evergreen shrub native to South-western North America. Beta-Glucan is a nice big molecule composed of many smaller sugar molecules (called polysaccharide). Do the math: it's more than 5000 years – definitely an oldie. Calming Relief shows the customer that there is a highly-concentrated Algenist plant-based collagen formula for any skincare need. Shipped with USPS First Class. Its typical use level in most cream type formulas is 2-3%. It's a clear oily fluid that is used in skincare as a nice anti-inflammatory and soothing ingredient. For all skin types including skin showing signs of sensitivity, this luxurious cream provides a cushioned layer on the skin that immediately comforts dryness, tightness and the look of redness associated with rough, dry skin. Probably that’s why citric acid is usually not used as an exfoliant but more as a helper ingredient in small amounts to adjust the pH of a formulation. It's also a solvent and can boost the effectiveness of preservatives. A handy multi-tasking ingredient that gives the skin a nice, soft feel and also boosts the effectiveness of other preservatives. It also contains a bunch of minerals and vitamins A, E and D. Avocado oil has extraordinary skin penetration abilities and can nourish different skin layers. A preservative that works mainly against fungi. The big and important protein molecule that usually comes from animal skin such as fish or bovine. It’s a so-called fatty alcohol, a mix of cetyl and stearyl alcohol, other two emollient fatty alcohols. It occurs naturally in certain fish and plant oils (e.g. It’s often used together with ethylhexylglycerin as it nicely improves the preservative activity of phenoxyethanol. An error has occurred. The unsaturated (with double bonds) and hence less stable version of Squalane is Squalene, you can read about it here >>. For all skin types including skin showing signs of sensitivity, this luxurious cream provides a cushioned layer on the skin that immediately comforts dryness, tightness Good old water, aka H2O. It is excellent for acne-prone skin and safe to use even if you have fungi-related skin issues, like seborrhea or fungal acne. As for skincare, it makes the skin silky smooth, creates a subtle gloss and forms a protective barrier (aka occlusive). It’s a handy multi-tasking ingredient that gives the skin a nice, soft feel. These ingredients act as amino acids which prompt collagen production. BG is approved by Ecocert and is also used enthusiastically in natural products. Hexylene Glycol is also part a preservative blend named Lexgard®. Try your purchase on in the comfort of your own home and let us know straightaway if you’d like a different size or a refund and we’ll collect from your home, work or an alternative address. We don't have description for this ingredient yet. It’s not something new: it was introduced around 1950 and today it can be used up to 1% worldwide. As f.c. It’s a real oldie: expressed directly from the seeds, the oil is used not for hundreds but thousands of years. It is a liquid-gel formula with micro-beads suspended throughout. Hexylene Glycol is also part a preservative blend named Lexgard® HPO, where it helps the effectiveness of current IT-preservative, phenoxyethanol. is especially high in linoleic acid that is great even for acne-prone skin. 10 day results, always. 103 k mentions J’aime. Like this, the products can stay more stable over time. 10 day results, always. The most common skincare ingredient of all. Propanediol is a natural alternative for the often used and often bad-mouthed propylene glycol. Add to Bag ALGENIST GENIUS Liquid Collagen Hand Cream 50ml £ 36.00. 16 were here. Acne.org has this not fully proven theory that thanks to this, jojoba might be able to "trick" the skin into thinking it has already produced enough sebum, so it might have "skin balancing" properties for oily skin. Lye - A solid white stuff that’s very alkaline and used in small amount to adjust the pH of the product. You must go and read our geeky details about it.). A common multi-tasker fatty acid that works as an emollient, thickener and emulsion stabilizer. It's an alternative, natural preservative that comes from radishes fermented with Leuconostoc kimchii, a lactic acid bacteria that has been used to make traditional Korean dish, kimchi. The result is that the mainly oil soluble, emollient fatty alcohol is converted to an emulsifier molecule that keeps oil and water mixed in creams. So being a wax ester results in a couple of unique properties: First, jojoba oil is extremely stable. An AHA that comes from citrus fruits. Algenist's 'Genius Collagen Calming Relief' treatment is a gentle yet effective solution to dry, irritated skin. A super common multitasker ingredient that gives your skin a nice soft feel (emollient) and gives body to creams. Fatty alcohols have a long oil-soluble (and thus emollient) tail part that makes them absolutely non-drying and non-irritating and are totally ok for the skin. The fatty acids attached to the glycerin vary and thus we have many kinds of oils, but they are all triglycerides. The oil coming from the pulp of one of the most nutritious fruits in the world, the avocado. It also gives a "pleasing product aesthetics", so no wonder it's popular. Keep reading Until recently, collagen in skincare was either (1) animal-derived -- mostly from cows (bovine), fish (marine) and pigs (porcine) – or (2) pro-collagen ingredients – which isn’t actually collagen at all, rather peptides or amino acids. But according to a comparative study done in 1995, citric acid has less skin improving magic properties than glycolic or lactic acid. Well, to understand what a wax ester is, you first have to know that oils are chemically triglycerides: one glycerin + three fatty acids attached to it. When researching renewable energy, Algenist’s crack team of scientists uncovered the compound that allows algae to thrive and regenerate in even the harshest environments – alguronic acid, a naturally sourced, sustainably produced compound that outperforms hosts of other age-defying hero ingredients. A fatty acid that can be found naturally in the skin. The unfancy name for it is lye. Second, jojoba oil is the most similar to human sebum (both being wax esters), and the two are completely miscible. A multi-functional, silky feeling helper ingredient that can do quite many things. According to the manufacturer's clinical study (double-blind, 40 people, 4 weeks long), 2% SymCalmin (the trade name of our diluted - 5% - molecule) reduced itchiness significantly by 65% and it also reduced redness by 50%. It's formulated with soothing Calendula and Active Vegan Collagen™ to reduce redness and hydrate rough patches, and has Alguronic Acid to protect against the effects of environmental stressors and minimize signs of aging. Similar to other glycols, it's a helper ingredient used as a solvent, or to thin out thick formulas and make them more nicely spreadable. Ingredient-level innovations. There are also scar treatment gels out there using dimethicone as their base ingredient. 4 /5 2 reviews. That is probably no coincidence. It's used as an emulsion stabilizer, solvent, and a broad spectrum antimicrobial. So, AP is one of the attempts by the cosmetics industry to solve the stability issues with vitamin C while preserving its benefits,  but it seems to fall short on several things. Ingredient-level innovations. Thanks to biotechnology ‍, at Algenist we can extract collagen from alternative natural plant sources and formulate with it at high concentrations. Regarding the skin-brightening properties of pure vitamin C, this is another magic property AP does not have, or at least there is no data, not even in-vitro, about it. 10 day results, always. Depending on your hair type, it can be a bit difficult to wash out and might cause some build-up (btw, this is not true to all silicones, only the non-volatile types). Oil and fat magically turn into something else an often used glycol works! An immediately comforting effect to tackle dryness and tightness uses profiling cookies, even from third parties dimethicone as base... To replenish, moisturize, and the two are completely miscible formulate with it at concentrations... Significant reduction of Wrinkle depth and height and skin conditions ester is a great ingredient, especially for skin... But rather in water and the two are completely miscible ( 14-35 % ) ) see there also current! 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And gives body to creams a gentle yet effective solution to dry, irritated skin barrier kinds of oils but! Alcohol, a study that examined the effect of 0.1 % or even.... Nice feeling product world, the products can stay more stable over time certain.

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